A mechanic's hand uses a wrench to drain amber oil from a car's underside into a black pan in a brightly lit garage.

6 Mistakes To Avoid When Changing Engine Oil

Every second counts on the track, and the difference between victory and a DNF often comes down to maintenance. While many racers focus on aerodynamics or suspension, the oil circulating through your engine is what truly keeps your high-performance machine alive. Changing oil may seem routine, but in racing, where engines face extreme stress and heat, precision is crucial. Even small mistakes can cause engine failure or power loss. Understanding these pitfalls ensures peak performance when it matters most. Here are key mistakes to avoid when changing engine oil to keep your vehicle ready for competition.

Using the Wrong Type of Oil

The most fundamental error you can make begins before you even unscrew the cap. Selecting the incorrect oil viscosity or additive package for a racing application spells disaster. Street cars and race cars have vastly different needs. Manufacturers design standard passenger vehicle oil for fuel economy and long drain intervals. These oils often lack the high levels of zinc (ZDDP) and anti-wear additives required to protect the flat-tappet camshafts or high-lift valvetrains found in racing engines.

Using oil that is too thin will fail to maintain the necessary film strength under high heat and load, leading to metal-on-metal contact and spun bearings. Conversely, oil that is too thick increases fluid friction, robbing the engine of horsepower and potentially causing high oil pressure issues that can blow seals. You must consult your engine builder’s specifications rather than relying on general advice. They know the bearing clearances and operating temperatures specific to your build. Before you buy, verify that the manufacturer explicitly formulated the oil for racing applications.

Over or Under Filling the Oil

Precision applies to volume just as much as it applies to viscosity. Adding too little oil is an obvious risk, as oil starvation during high-G cornering or hard acceleration will cause the oil pump to suck air. This aeration leads to a drop in oil pressure, instantly threatening the integrity of your rod and main bearings.

However, overfilling is a more common and equally dangerous mistake in the paddock. When you add too much oil to the crankcase, the rotating assembly, specifically the crankshaft counterweights, can whip the oil into a froth. This aerated oil becomes compressible, unlike liquid oil, and fails to separate moving parts effectively. Furthermore, the windage created by the crankshaft wading through excess oil creates significant drag, which parasitically drains horsepower from the engine. You should always check the oil level on level ground and account for any oil coolers that might hold additional fluid.

A blue-gloved hand pours golden engine oil from a gray bottle into a car engine's oil filler, with dark engine parts visible.

Not Replacing the Oil Filter

Changing the fluid without changing the filtration system defeats the purpose of maintenance. The oil filter captures microscopic metal particles, combustion byproducts, and contaminants that inevitably accumulate during a race. Leaving an old filter in place means that as soon as you pour fresh oil in, it mixes with the sludge and dirty oil trapped in the old filter media.

A clogged filter presents an even greater danger. If the filter media becomes saturated with debris, the internal bypass valve will open to prevent oil starvation. While this keeps the engine lubricated, it circulates unfiltered oil throughout the engine, sending abrasive particles directly into the bearings and cylinder walls. Treat the filter as a critical part of the oil change. Always use a high-flow racing filter designed to withstand the high burst pressures common during cold starts.

Stripping the Drain Plug

In the rush to get a car ready for the next heat, mechanics often overtighten the drain plug. This can strip the threads on the oil pan, turning a ten-minute job into an expensive repair requiring a new pan or a thread repair kit. An aluminum racing oil pan is particularly susceptible to thread damage if you apply too much torque.

Removing a stuck plug that was previously overtightened also poses risks. If the wrench slips, you round off the bolt head, making removal nearly impossible without specialized extraction tools. You can avoid this by always using a torque wrench to tighten the plug to the manufacturer's exact specifications. Additionally, inspect the crush washer or gasket every time you remove the plug. A deformed gasket prompts many to overtighten the plug to stop a drip, which leads to stripped threads. Replace the gasket during every oil change to ensure a proper seal without excessive force.

Forgetting To Warm Up the Engine

Draining oil from a cold engine leaves a significant amount of dirty fluid and contaminants behind. Cold oil is viscous and flows slowly, clinging to the internal surfaces of the crankcase, cylinder heads, and oil galleries. Sludge and heavy particulates settle at the bottom of the pan and are less likely to flow out with the cold oil.

You need to bring the engine up to operating temperature before initiating the drain. Heat lowers the viscosity of the fluid, allowing it to flow freely and carry suspended contaminants out of the engine. Run the engine for several minutes until the water temperature registers on the gauge or the oil pan feels warm to the touch. Be cautious when removing the drain plug, as hot oil can cause burns, but the result is a much cleaner crankcase ready for fresh lubricant.

A hand pours golden oil from a gray bottle into an orange funnel placed in a car engine, with hoses and parts visible nearby.

Improper Disposal of Old Oil

To finish the job, you must handle the waste oil correctly. Dumping used oil into the trash, down a drain, or onto the ground is illegal and environmentally devastating. Racing oil contains heavy metals and toxic chemicals that can contaminate groundwater and harm wildlife.

Most auto parts stores and municipal recycling centers accept used motor oil free of charge. You should pour the old oil into a sealable container immediately after draining to prevent spills in the garage. Many tracks also provide designated waste oil drums for racers. Taking the time to dispose of the oil responsibly ensures that we can all continue to enjoy motorsports without negatively impacting the environment or facing hefty fines from track officials.

Achieving Optimal Performance

Maintaining a racing engine demands attention to detail that goes beyond the average garage tune-up. By avoiding these common errors, you protect your investment and ensure that your engine delivers reliable power lap after lap. Always double-check your oil type, verify your fluid levels, replace the filter, torque your drain plug correctly, drain the system hot, and recycle your waste.

Keeping these mistakes to avoid when changing engine oil in mind will save you from costly rebuilds and keep you on the track where you belong. For those seeking superior protection, Driven Racing Oil offers high-performance motor oil specifically engineered to withstand the rigorous demands of competition. Our formulas provide the critical zinc and anti-wear additives your engine needs to run smoothly and cross the finish line first. Browse our selection to learn more.

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